Old Havana

Old Havana, or Habana Vieja, is the atmospheric heart of the Cuban capital, a UNESCO old town of extraordinary, gloriously faded beauty. Its grand cobbled plazas, baroque churches, colonnaded streets and crumbling pastel mansions, some restored, many peeling and propped, tell of a rich colonial past, while vintage 1950s American cars cruise the streets, live music drifts from every doorway, and daily life spills onto the balconies, an intoxicating, living time capsule.

What you actually see

• The colonial plazas - the grand squares of Vieja, the Cathedral and Armas.
• The vintage cars - the classic 1950s American cars cruising the streets.
• The Malecon - the famous seafront promenade at sunset.
• The live music - the son and salsa in the bars and squares.

When to go

November to April, the dry season, for the most pleasant weather, avoiding both the summer heat and humidity and the hurricane season; the streets and music are liveliest in the cooler evenings.

Honest expectations

Cuba can be logistically challenging: internet is limited and slow, cash is essential and the currency and payment situation is confusing and shifting, and shortages of goods are common, so come prepared and patient. Much of the beauty is genuinely crumbling. Hustlers, or jineteros, work the tourist areas. Its atmosphere, music and warmth, though, are unforgettable.

Nearby

The Malecon, the Vedado district and the fortresses across the harbour are in Havana.