Santiago de Cuba

Santiago de Cuba, the island's second city in the hot, mountainous far east, is the vibrant, passionate heart of Afro-Cuban culture and a cradle of both the country's music and its revolution. A hilly, atmospheric city with a strong Caribbean flavour and deep African roots, it is the home of son and trova music, famous for its exuberant July carnival, and set on a bay guarded by the UNESCO-listed clifftop Castillo del Morro fortress.

What you actually see

• The Castillo del Morro - the UNESCO clifftop fortress over the bay.
• The Afro-Cuban culture - the music, dance and heritage.
• Parque Cespedes - the lively central square and cathedral.
• The July carnival - the famous, exuberant street carnival.

When to go

November to April, the dry season, for bearable weather, as the east is hotter and more humid than Havana; the famous carnival, however, falls in the heat of late July and is the city's most exuberant time.

Honest expectations

It is hot, hilly and, being far from Havana in the east, reached by a long journey or a flight, so it is often skipped by short trips. It is grittier and less polished than the western cities, with the usual Cuban challenges of shortages and hustlers, but its music, culture and Caribbean passion are intense and genuine. The carnival is a spectacle worth timing a visit around.

Nearby

The Sierra Maestra mountains, the Baconao park and the beaches of the east are nearby.