Lola ya Bonobo

In forest at Kinshasa's southern edge, Lola ya Bonobo - 'paradise for bonobos' in Lingala - runs the world's only sanctuary dedicated to the species: orphans of the bushmeat trade arrive traumatised and are mothered back to bonobo life by human surrogates and the group's own famous empathy, in forested enclosures where visitors watch play, politics and the species' celebrated peacemaking at close range. The project's science and its reintroductions to the wild made it a conservation landmark; the visit funds the work, and the neighbouring Lukaya falls add a picnic finish to Kinshasa's best day out.

What you actually see

• The bonobo groups - play and peacemaking at forest range.
• The nursery - orphans and their human surrogate mothers.
• The sanctuary story - rescue to reintroduction, told by keepers.
• The Lukaya falls - the picnic cascade next door.

When to go

June to September, the drier season, suits the forest paths; mornings find the groups liveliest. Book visits ahead - access runs on the sanctuary's schedule, within the country's standing arranged-travel frame.

Honest expectations

The frame first, as for the country generally - Kinshasa travel runs on current conditions and local arrangements. At the sanctuary: rules protect apes vulnerable to human illness - distances and guide instructions are absolute; this is welfare work with viewing, not entertainment.

Nearby

Kinshasa, the Lukaya valley and the river's Malebo pool.