Kathmandu and Durbar Square

The Kathmandu Valley is the cultural heart of Nepal, a UNESCO treasure whose three ancient royal cities, Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, each centre on a magnificent Durbar Square, a plaza crowded with intricately carved wooden pagoda temples, palaces and shrines. Amid the frenetic energy and honking traffic of the modern capital, these squares, and the living Newari culture around them, offer an atmospheric window into a rich medieval past.

What you actually see

• Kathmandu Durbar Square - the old royal square and the Kumari living-goddess house.
• Bhaktapur - the best-preserved medieval city, with its pottery square.
• Patan Durbar Square - the exquisite temples and museum.
• Thamel - the bustling old traveller and trekking district.

When to go

October to April for the driest, clearest weather; October and November, after the monsoon, offer the clearest mountain views and vibrant festivals. Winter is cool but clear, while the monsoon brings cloud and rain.

Honest expectations

The 2015 earthquake damaged or destroyed some of the monuments, and reconstruction is ongoing, so some squares mix restored splendour with scaffolding and gaps. Kathmandu is chaotic, dusty and traffic-choked, and its air quality can be poor. The durbar squares now charge entry. Its atmosphere and craft, though, are extraordinary, especially in calmer Bhaktapur and Patan.

Nearby

The Boudhanath and Swayambhunath stupas and Pashupatinath temple are in the valley.