Jeddah and Al-Balad

Jeddah, the Red Sea port city, is the most cosmopolitan and relaxed of Saudi Arabia's cities, long the gateway for pilgrims travelling to nearby Mecca, and its historic heart, Al-Balad, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This atmospheric old town is a maze of narrow lanes lined with tall, distinctive merchant houses of coral stone, their facades adorned with beautiful, intricately carved wooden bay windows and balconies known as roshan, a unique architectural heritage now being lovingly restored, alongside old mosques and bustling souks.

What you actually see

• Al-Balad - the old town of coral-stone houses and carved roshan balconies.
• The historic houses - the restored merchant mansions.
• The souks - the traditional markets of the old town.
• The Corniche - the Red Sea waterfront and its landmarks.

When to go

November to March, the cool season, for bearable temperatures, as Jeddah is hot and humid much of the year; Al-Balad is most atmospheric in the cooler evenings, when the lanes and souks come alive, and the winter brings a season of cultural events.

Honest expectations

Al-Balad is atmospheric but its historic houses have suffered from neglect, and while major restoration is under way, some remain fragile or propped up. Jeddah is hot and humid. As the gateway to Mecca, note that the holy city itself, and Medina's holiest core, are closed to non-Muslims and are places of pilgrimage, not tourism. Jeddah, though, is welcoming, and Al-Balad's carved houses are a unique heritage.

Nearby

The Red Sea coast and its diving, and the wider Hijaz region, are nearby.